Written by
Hannah Khiangte
HNAM PUAN HMAN DAN CHUNG CHANG
Mahni eizawnna lam a ni bawk a, Mizo puan hmandan chungchangah rilru zau zawk nêna kan thlir a, kan ngaihtuah theihna’n keima tawn hriat ve aṭangin kan thupui hi sawi ka han tum a ni.
Designer ka nihna angin fabrics leh textile hrang hrang hi ka dai phak ve chin chinah ka lo explore ve ta nual mai a. Mizote hian foreign leh Indian textile-ah exposure kan hmu ṭha hlein ka hria a, imported phei chu kan ngaisâng khawp mai.
Kum 2013 aṭang khan dawr ka hawng chho ve a. Chawlhni inkhâwm kawr Sunday top kan tih mai aṭangin bul ka ṭan a, Pathian zarah mite ngaihven pawh kan hlawh ṭha chho khawp mai a. A tawi zâwngin sawi ila, rilru-ah tum te a lo sâng chho zêl a. Media hrang hrangah International Designer Show ropui tak takte enin, show-a tel theihna tur te kan han dap kual ve a. Kum 2016 khan India Runway Week-ah telna chance a lo awm ta hlauh mai a. Kan kawr design poh chu chhuang takin kan zuk pho ve ta. Show chu Western Wear a ni nain, Indian Sari blouse hnunga an vuah uai ṭhin ang hi ka hmang nual a, chu chuan a ti hlawhtlingin, mite ngaihven a hlawh ta êm êm mai a.
Show-ah chuan Stall (dawr) min pe a. Kan stall-ah chuan fashion industry expert pakhat a lo kal a, “Eng puan nge i hman?” min ti a, chhuang tak maiin, “Imported fabrics” ka lo ti ve mai a. Ani chuan, “In state-ah puan nalh tak tak in nei si engati nge i hman loh?” min ti ta a. Harh chhuak zawk pahin chhân ngaihna ka hre ta lo va. “Imported fabrics chu khawvelah a tam lutuk. India rama state dangah te pawh fabrics ṭha tak siamin, an hmang ṭhin a. Nangmahni ram siam ngei hmang tawh la. Chu chuan a ti unique ang che a, mi pawhin an ngaihlu zâwk ang,” tiin advice min pe ta nghal bawk a. Khatia a sawi chiah khan ka zak chem chem a, kan khawvel a lo la zimzia pawh min hriat chhuah tîr nghal bawk a ni.
He ka thil tawn aṭang hian Mizo puan (textile) ngei hmanga thuamhnaw design-na brand bîk House of Hannah hi a lo piang ta a ni. Chu rilru thar chu pu chungin kan hnam puan hmang chuan kawr te kan siam a. Tin, hnam puan zia ni kher lo, Mizo kutchhuak puan hrim hrim hmangin collection thar leh ngaihtuahna thar nei chungin bul kan han ṭan chho leh ta a. Ram pawna Exhibition hrang hrangah te ka han tel chho ve leh ta a, International market thlenga Mizo textile pho chhuah chhoh zêl tumna rilru-a nei chhungin ke ka han pên chhuak leh ta a. Chutah chiah chuan response kan hmu ṭha ta êm êm a, imported fabrics kan hman ṭhin lai ai khan keimahni ram leh hnam puan ngei kan han hman khan international level-ah chuan kan lo langsârin, pawm leh lawm kan lo hlawh ta daih zâwk a ni.
Kan Mizo puan zia (pattern) te hi khawvel hmun dang ami ten mawi an tiin a tah hautak tûrzia ringawt te hian mi mak tih leh ngaihhlut a hlawh a. UK lam designer pakhat chuan, “Kan ramah chuan a tah theih tih pawh hi an awih lo hial ang. Embroidery work emawni an ti hial ang,” tiin min hrilh a. Hnam puan pawh kan hmang nual a, kan hman chhan leh puan awmzia te kan han explain chuan ngaihnawm (interesting) an ti lutuk a, kan puanbu (handloom) en duhin an lo zin phah hial a ni.
Kan hnam thilte kan hman aṭang hian khawvel mite hriat (recognition) leh interview tam tak kan dawn phah a. India chanchinbu darh zau tak Telegraph thleng pawhin rampum (nation-wide) feature kan dawng a, kan hnam thil hi min lo ngaihhlut sak êm êm mai a ni.
Thil dang tawnhriat hrang hrang sawi tur awm nual mah se, a thui lutuk palh ang e. Ka sawi tum ber chu hetihian han sawi ta ila:
Kan hnam puan hi a hlu êm êm a, kan vawnghim (preserve) tur a ni reng a ni. Hnam dangin an duh ang anga min hman sak hi culture exploitation a ni ngei a, chumi lakah chuan kan fimkhur pawh a ṭûl.
Kan hnam puante hian awmzia leh hmanna bîk an nei ṭheuh mai. Chutih laiin, tunlai hunah chuan a tira an nihna leh awmzia ang diak diakin kan hmang thei ta vek lo. Thangchhuah puan te pawh kawr (kamis) ah te ṭhuiin
Thangchhuah leh Zawhzawzopa nil em lote pawhin kan ha ta ṭhup ṭhup mai a; pasalṭha lem lote pawhin kan duh angin diarte kan khim chho ta zel a. Tawllohpuante pawh hnam dang khual ṭhate pawh kan pein, kan sin tîr ta zel mai a. Hei hian, tunlai hunah hian kan hnam thil kan kalpui dan leh hman dan te hian her rem zel a ṭul zia kawng ṭhenkhatah chuan an lantir niin a lang.
Hnam dang puan hi kan hmang nasa ve a, an ze chei prints, sari puan thlengin kan hman sak ve a, anmahni lam chu an lawm phian zawk a. Indian designer te pawh hian an culture khawvela pholanna’n an hnam thilte an hmang nasa em em a. Hnam dangin sari leh kurti ringawt an ha ve dawn lo tih hriain, khawvel hmun danga miten an lo pawm a, an hak ve theih turin an hnam puante hmangin Western wear-ah pawh tam tak an siam chhuak ve a ni.
Kan hnam puan hrang hrangte hmang hian products hrang hrang tuihnai leh mawi tak takte siam chhuakin, international market thlengin pholan tlâk an niin, an chhuanawm êm êm a. Hetianga a mawi zawng leh a ṭha zawnga kan intarlan zelna hian khawvel hmuhah ṭha taka min tarlangin, kan ei leh bar zawnna kawng (economy) thlengin min chawikangin, a tih that phah theih hial dawn a ni.
Mizo hmeichhiate hun zahawma incheina chi puanbih ang hi hnam dangin min ṭawmpui dâwn lo. Hetianga Mizo hnam ngei designer-te tan ngei pawh mahni ram leh hnam puan incheina ṭhuina atana khap a nih mai chuan, kan Mizo hnam puan leh designer te thlen chin tur hi a tawi em em dawn a. Kan thiltih tur zawng zawng chu kan hnam danglamna pakhat mah pholan theih lohna, midang, hnam dang puan leh ziarang chauh va copy-na, originality awm thei rêng rêng lo a lo ni dawn tihna a ni a. Ṭhangthar designer-te hmakhua zel hi a thim êm êm dawn a lo ni ang.
Tuna Mizo designer leh handloom tam takten Mizo puan textile products hrang hrang an siam hi hmasawn duhna, rilru ṭha tak pu-a siam an ni tlangpuiin ka ring a. Hei hian kan culture pawh kawng hrang hrangin a tihausa hlein ka hria a. Chutih mek laiin mi ṭhenkhatin hnam pawi khawih ang hiala min ngai a, mi an han chhuah hian rilru nasa takin a tihnual a ni.
Mizo Textile Industry hi a la develop lo em em a, khawvela textile industry lian ber awmna ramah awm chung hian, state dangte ngaihtuahin kan hnufûm hle a ni. Hetianga mahni ram leh hnam puan siam chhuah ngei kan hman hian puantahtu (weavers) tam tak, thingtlang lama harsa taka eizawnna atana hmangte pawh kan chawikangin, kan chhawm dawl ve ṭan mek a ni. Mizoram chhung mai ni lo, Zoram pawn thlenga a hralhna market kan zauh hian hun lo la kal zel turah pawh hlawk zawk leh lukhawng nei zawkin kan textile industry hian hma a sawn zel dawn zawk a ni.
Incheina pangai leh thuam hrang hrang atana kan ram leh hnam siam chhuah leh zia rang ngei hnam puan kan hman lar zel hian ṭhangtharte zingah hnam ngaihsanna leh hnam thil ngaihhlutna awareness a pe thar nasa em em a. Kan hnam puan chungchangah hriatchian leh zual chakna awm chhovin, research te pawh kan bei chho ta zel a. Kan hnam puan leh ziarang hi an nihna leh awmziate hrechiang a, inzirtir zelin, formal leh casual wear-ah te pawh hmang uar chho zel ila. Kan hman nasat hian kan tipung a, kan tihlu niin ka ngai a. Vawn ṭhat kan tum lutukna lamah kan khuahkhirh nasat lutuk chuan, hun lo la kal leh zel turah ṭhangthar lo la awm leh zel turte hian theihnghilhin, museum-ah chauh kan la vawng ṭha palh ang tih pawh thil awm thei a ni ve tho mai em, tihte min ngaihtuah tir a ni.
Kan ram leh hnam thil chungchangah hian mi tlêmte leh ngaihdan tlanglawn awm sa, kan lo tih mek leh tih ṭhan sa ringawt chhûngah inhung zim a, inkhar khip mai lovin, ngaihdan hrang hrangte thawhkhawmin, inrawn khawm ila. Helam kawnga mi chinchang hria leh tawnhriat ngah te, eizawnna atana kawng hrang hranga hmang mekte hmakhua ngaihtuah sak tel bawk ila. Ṭhangthar lo la awm zel turte tana chhawm nun zel theih thawmhnaw leh nitin nun leh khawsak kawnga kan hnam ziarang ngei pholang thei, kan hnam intodelhna tarlangtu hnam thuamhnawte siam chhuak zel thei turin hnampui rilru pu chungin i ngaihtuah tlang teh ang u.
Hannah Khiangte